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02-03/08/08. 

 


In 2004 infoportwine.com was sponsored by the IVDP, the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto.





Croft Pink (2): a reply by Adrian Bridge.
    . Mail Bridge 19/06/08.
    . Mail infoportwine 20/06/08.
    . Mail Bridge 20/06/08.
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Vintages 2006 (2).
-
New shop IVDP in Oporto.
-
Lots of news from the Museu do Douro.
-
IVDP events calendar as of July 2008.
-
Revista de Vinhos no. 223, June 2008.
-
Competition with special jury.
-
Concurso Nacional de Vinhos Engarrafados 2008 - Santarém.
-
Sélections Mondiales des Vins 2008 - Québec.
-
Concurso de Vinhos ACIC 2008 - Coïmbra, Portugal.
- San Francisco International Wine Competition 2008.
- IWC 2008 (2) - Trophy’s.

-
The first rosé “Port Wine”.   

Croft Pink (2): a reply by Adrian Bridge.

05/07/08. On  June 7th we published our judgment of the first rosé “Port Wine”, the Croft Pink of The Fladgate Partnership (see here).
On June 19th Adrian Bridge, the general manager of TFP, reacted to that article in an extensive e-mail (see here).
On  June 20th we answered him (see here) and on the same day Mr Bridge finished the discussion (see here)
We hope to make the information about this rosé Port Wine a little more complete with the integral publication of this exchange of ideas.   

Mail Bridge 19/06/08.

            Dear Mr and Mrs Gerdingh

I was very interested to read your article in the latest edition of Port Wine News regarding Croft Pink Port.  Thank you for raising some important points.  I thought that you and your readers would like to hear my views on some of your comments.

The first thing I should say is that we have been very positively surprised by the favourable reaction to Croft Pink from trade, press and consumers.  The response in The Netherlands has been exceptionally enthusiastic.  We have also received a lot of support from many of our competitors and we know that some of them are actively considering launching similar products after the next harvest.

As you rightly point out, our objectives in introducing Croft Pink included the extension of port consumption into the warmer months and the recruitment of new consumers to the category.  So far Pink is achieving both these objectives.  However, I do not agree with your assumption that Pink will not appeal to consumers who already love Port.  So far our experience indicates the contrary.   A great many journalists, retailers and consumers who understand and appreciate the traditional Port styles also love Pink.  They understand that it is a different style of Port, intended for more relaxed and informal consumption, but is nevertheless a legitimate and above all enjoyable expression of the category.

Of course there will always be traditionalists who are suspicious of new trends and developments.   We only need to recall the initial reaction to Late Bottled Vintage,  when Taylor's launched it, which many people said would destroy Vintage Port given Taylor's reputation, whereas in reality it helped to revitalise it and broaden its appeal.    We can ask ourselves whether the quality end of the Port category would be as succesful today if it had never been invented.

This brings me to  another important point.   As a new style Pink has stimulated lively interest and debate.  As Port lovers and supporters I am sure that, like us, you welcome developments which heighten awareness of the Port category.  In today's cluttered and complex wine world, it is increasingly important that we find reasons for consumers - particularly new consumers - to take an interest in Port.   We need to ensure that Port stays relevant while preserving its heritage and traditions.

As a very 'traditional', long established and family-owned Port producer, focused on the classic premium styles, we are the last people who would want to damage the core values and heritage of the Port category.   It is vital that these are protected and we appreciate the work that you and others are doing to communicate them to the consumer.    However we do need to keep moving the category forward and ensure that it is never perceived as tired and old fashioned.

The IVDP understands this and has been very supportive of the Croft Pink project.  However the Board of the IVDP was also very clear that it would not authorise any product that did not represent real quality. We worked hard on our trials and fully shared our results with the IVDP so that they could understand what we were trying to achieve and be assured that we were producing a high quality product - this will provide the benchmark for future producers of this style of Port.   There was, in our view, absolutely no question of a 'demolition of standards' but a recognition that the outstanding grapes of the Douro Valley are capable of expressing themselves in many different and interesting ways, from the magnificent depth and power of a classic Vintage Port to the fresh and crisp berry fruit characters of Croft Pink.

Among these various expressions of the Douro grapes are, of course, the Douro table wines.  And here I would like to make a correction, if I may.  We have certainly never criticised our colleagues who produce table wines.  On the contrary we have often said that the Douro is capable of producing exceptional still wines. Indeed, our company distributes in Portugal the table wines of one of the best Douro producers.  What we have said is that our company does not, at the moment, have any plans to diversify into this area.  We believe that our efforts are more effectively directed at our core busines of Port.  We firmly believe, as I am sure you do, that Port has a great future and deserves focus and dedication as one of the world's great classic wines.  We feel that Port and Douro Table wines are talking to different niches of the market and that the former should not carry the weight of promoting the latter.  We certainly feel uncomfortable with the message being received in some places that Douro producers have 'given up on Port' and only see a future for our valley in table wine which is why we have been vigorous in our support of Port.

Finally, yes, we do take pride in what we do.  Whether we are superior or not, is not for us to judge.  However I can assure you that we remain completely focused, as a family run business, on doing everything, from the vineyard to the bottle, in a dedicated, enthusiastic and professional manner.

This of course includes making Croft Pink, and I would encourage any of your readers who have not done so to give it a try and make up their own minds.  Port is serious - but it can also be fun!

Keep up the good work.

Yours sincerely

Adrian Bridge, Managing Director The Fladgate Partnership, 19/06/08.   


Mail infoportwine 20/06/08.
 
Dear Mr Bridge,


Thanks for your reply. We hope that you will allow us to publish it integrally on our site on July 5th.

With regard to our judgement we would like to state that this was not made as "traditionalists", but based on our observation that Croft Pink does not show any Port characteristics in smell and taste. This could never be said about the LBV. Even people who do not appreciate White Ports admit that these whites show these characteristics very well.
But let us agree to disagree.

We are happy that you do not wish to criticise your colleagues who also produce Douro table wines. We will have seen the wrong quotes on this issue.

With best regards,

Elly and Herman Gerdingh, 20/06/08.


Mail Bridge 20/06/08.
Dear Mr & Mrs Gerdingh

I am happy that you publish my reply in full.

I do not expect to always agree with everyone and I very much respect your view.  I am passionate about Port and its future which I am known to vigorously defend.  My message does not always conform to what everyone would like.  As a trade there has always been a tendency to follow each other, sometimes without always thinking about strategy.  I am told that six new rosé Port projects are in development!

I hope that you will be my guest for lunch when you are next in Vila Nova de Gaia.

Kind regards

Adrian

Adrian Bridge, Managing Director The Fladgate Partnership, 20/06/08.


Vintages 2006 (2).

05/07/08. On  May 3rd we wrote that not many Vintages of the year 2006 were announced yet (see here). Now we are able to report that Quinta de Roriz has also declared a Vintage 2006 which will be marketed in October of this year.

New shop IVDP in Oporto.
05/07/08. On March 1st, 2007 the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto closed its shop at the airport in Oporto. Now only the shop at the Lisbon airport remains and of course the shops in its Solares.
Recently a shop has been opened in the IVDP premises at the Rua Ferreira Borges no. 27 in Oporto. This is not the official head quarters but the largest establishment of the institute.
This shop is open from Monday to Saturday from 10.00 to 19.00.

It is special that the IVDP will also organize guided tours through its laboratories and the department of the permanent tasting panel (Câmara de Provadores). The entry price for this tour is however not yet known.

Lots of news from the Museu do Douro. 05/07/08.

  1. Recently the new website www.museudodouro.pt was published. The site was not available for (too) long as it was being renewed. There is (for now?) only a Portuguese version.
  2. A new temporary exhibition was organized in the room behind the Solar do Vinho do Porto of the IVDP in the Rua da Ferreirinha in Peso da Régua. Entitled Memória da Terra e do Vinho (memory of the earth and the wine) attention is paid to o Território (the territory), a História (the history), a Vinha (the vineyard), o Vinho (the wine), do Douro para o Mundo (of the Douro for the world) and Imagens do Vinho (images of the wine). The exhibition is open from May 18th from Tuesday to Sunday from 10.00 to 12.30 and from 14.00 to 18.00 uur.
  3. The definitive museum in the former winery of Real Companhia Velha will be inaugurated on December 14th this year (see also Round trip 9c.).
  4. The Museu do Douro will really be a museum of the entire region with a chain of eleven annexes. The places and the themes of these annexes are:

-         Favaios: do Pão e do Vinho (of the bread and the wine).

-         Lamego: da Gastronomia (of the gastronomy).

-         Barca de Alva: do Caminho de Ferro (of the railway).

-         Vila Real: da Electricidade (of the electricity).

-         Vila Nova de Foz Côa: da Amêndoa (of the almond).

-         Resende: do Arrais e da Cereja (of the sailor of a Rabelo and the cherry).

-         São João da Pesqueira: do Vinho (of the wine).

-         Freixo de Espada à Cinta: da Seda (of the silk).

-         Vila Nova de Foz Côa: do Somagre (a plant formerly used to tan skins).

-         Mesão Frio: de Barqueiros (of the bargemen).

-         Tabuaço: o Museu do Imaginário (the museum of the imaginary).


IVDP events calendar as of July 2008.
05/07/08. The Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto has planned the following events in Belgium and the United States:

Belgium:
.
September 4th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Kortrijk/Courtrai.
. September 11th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Brugge/Bruges.
. September 18th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Antwerpen/Anvers.
. September 25th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Dendermonde.
. October 2nd - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Louvain/Leuven.
. October 8th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Hotelschool, Lokeren.
. October 9th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, St Niklaas.
. October 16th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Charleroi.
. October 20th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Hotelschool, Bruxelles/Brussel.
. October 21st - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Hotelschool, Bruxelles/Brussel.
. October 23rd - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Liège/Luik.
. October 27th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Bruxelles/Brussel.
. October 28th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Bruxelles/Brussel.
. October 30th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Huy.
. October 31st - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - School de Mons, Bergen/Mons.
. November 6th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Cigars club, Moeskroen/Mouscron.
. November 14th - Port Wine, Chocolate, cigars - Hotelschool, Liège/Luik.

United States:
.
October 15th - Seminar in Hotel school EUA, 2nd round - Newbury Colleges, Brookline, Massachusetts.
. October 16th - Two seminars in Hotel school EUA, 2nd round - Boston University, Boston, Massachusetts.
. October 22nd - Seminar in Hotel school EUA, 2nd round - Connecticut Culinary Institute, Hartford University, Connecticut.
. October 23rd - Seminar in Hotel school EUA, 2nd round - Astor Centre, New York.

Revista de Vinhos no. 223, June 2008.

05/07/08. The June issue of the Portuguese magazine Revista de Vinhos contains the following  information on Port Wine:

New product:
The Messias Dry Old White received 16.5 points from the editorial staff on a score chart from 0 to 20. This wine is more than 10 years old. It belongs to the new category of Aged Whites or Vinhos do Porto Branco com Indicação de Idade de 10 Anos.

Douro tourism 2:
The article by Samuel Alemão in the last issue (see here) seems to have hurt. In the box with readers letters Ana Magarida Morgado of The Fladgate Partnership and Paulo Outeiro, outgoing president of the Rota do Vinho do Porto, reacted. However they cannot remove the fact that the large houses in the Douro do not open their quintas (excepted a single one) and that this makes tourism not yet fully developed.

Quinta do Vale Meão:
João Afonso describes the rich history of this 81 hectares quinta in de Douro Superior, ever owned by Dona Ferreirinha and in 1952 the place where Fernando Nicolau de Almeida made the first Barca Velha table wine. The tasting notes are only of Douro wines.

Competition with special jury.
05/07/08. Most jury members of wine competitions are wine writers or wine producers. However a competition will now be organized in Santa Rosa, California with only professional wine buyers of
supermarkets, specialty wine shops, restaurants and airlines as jury members. As far as we know this will be the first one of its kind in the world. So, competitors will not only be judged, but also receive a chance for sale contacts. We are curious if this formula will have extra appeal to the market. 
All of the above is with regards to the U.S. Professional Wine Buyers Competition & Tasting which will be organized by Wine Competition Management LLC from October 13th to 14th . This private company also organizes the National Women’s Wine Competition and the International Green Wine Competition.  
See: http://www.prowinebuyerscomp.info/ 

Concurso Nacional de Vinhos Engarrafados 2008 - Santarém.
05/07/08. During the second Concurso Nacional de Vinhos Engarrafados in Santarém, Portugal from May 13th to 16th Prestígio Awards were granted to the following Port products:

-        
Offley LBV 2003.
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Ramos Pinto Quinta de Ervamoira Vintage 2005.
-        
Vallegre Q. de Valle Longo Vintage 2005.
-        
Taylor’s LBV 2002.
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Messias 20 Years Old Tawny.
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Messias Vintage 2005.
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Vallegre Vista Allegre Vintage 2005.
-        
Ferreira Vintage 2000.
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Caves Vale do Rodo Vintage 2004.
-        
Taylor’s Q. de Terra Feita Vintage 2005.
The competition contained 653 entries.
For more information and the other awards see:
http://cnema.pt/xms/files/Imprensa/2008/CNVE2008/PremiadosCNVE2008.pdf 

Sélections Mondiales des Vins 2008 - Québec.
05/07/08. During the fifteenth Sélections Mondiales des Vins in Québec, Canada from May 30th to June 5th  two of the seven Grand Gold Medals were awarded to the following Port products:
-         Krohn Colheita 1987.
-         Romariz Colheita 1963.
The competition contained 2,131 entries.
For more information and the other medals see:
http://smvcanada.ca/resultats.aspx  

Concurso de Vinhos ACIC 2008 - Coïmbra, Portugal.
05/07/08. During the tenth Concurso de Vinhos ACIC in Coïmbra, Portugal from June 4th to 5th gold medals were awarded to the following Port products: 
-   Caves Vale do Rodo Reccua 10 Years Old Tawny (Cooperativa Peso da Régua, Tabuaço en Armamar).
-   Gran Cruz 30 Years Old Tawny.
-   Quinta do Estanho 20 Years Old Tawny.   
-   Quinta do Estanho 30 Years Old Tawny.   
-   Quinta do Estanho Vintage 1996.
For more information see: http://www.acic.pt/ 

San Francisco International Wine Competition 2008.
05/07/08. During the SF International Wine Competition from June 13th to 15th bronze medals were awarded to the following real Port products:
-        
Osborne LBV 2001.
-        
Sandeman Vau Vintage 2000.
-        
Sandeman 20 Years Old Tawny.
-        
Smith Woodhouse 20 Years Old Tawny.
For more information see: http://www.sfwinecomp.com/results.html 

IWC 2008 (2) - Trophy’s.
05/07/08. O June 7th we published the gold medal winners of the International Wine Challenge (see here). The following of them won a Trophy:
-        
The Tawny Port Trophy: Ramos Pinto 30 Years Old Tawny.
-        
The Colheita Port Trophy: Burmester Colheita 1989.
-        
The Crusted Port Trophy: Dow’s Crusted Bottled 2002.
-        
The LBV Port Trophy: Graham’s LBV 2003.
-        
The Vintage Port Trophy : Taylor’s/Marks & Spencer Vintage 1994.
For more information see: http://www.internationalwinechallenge.com/trophies.aspx

The first rosé “Port Wine”.
07/06/08. A fierce discussion bursted out on internet forums immediately after the first press reports, at the end of January, about the launch of a rosé Port Wine by The Fladgate Partnership (TFP). We could add little to this before we laid hands on the product ourselves. Unfortunately we had to wait a long time for it, but now it has arrived.

Generally the first reactions of lovers and professionals were devastating: sugar water, not a hint of Port, a women’s drink, too much alcohol, etc.

The first idea for this rosé Port came from Adrian Bridge, general manager of TFP. The marketing aim was to produce a new Port style that would attract new consumers, probably women. An other goal is to free Port Wine from its winter character. This was successful with the Aged Tawnies, but the company wants more.

The team of winemaker David Guimaraes has worked on the development of the product during three years.

The grapes for this rosé are the same as for the Ruby types and are all from Quinta da Roêda (Croft) near Pinhão.
Obviously contact with the skins was limited in the production process to get less colour. The cold fermentation (15
° C) took seven days, almost twice the time normally used for Port. Decanting was also done cooled.
An alcohol percentage of 19.5% and a sugar level of 94 gms, just like the Ruby types, was chosen after many tests. There was no cask maturing.
Besides the blend for Croft Pink, TFP made a blend composed by Marks & Spencer marketed by this English supermarket concern with its own name.
The production volume is substantial: 40,000 boxes of 9 litres or 480,000 bottles of 0.75 litres.

The IVDP (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto) accompanied the project during a year. According to its president Jorge Monteiro, the project was accepted because the institute sees innovation as necessary. That is why the current rules were interpreted flexibly.

Drinks Branding Group Dare that designed the bottle and accompanied the advertising and marketing campaign, saw the presentation of Croft Pink.
England was the first market where the rosé Port was available. Later the product will be rolled out in other important countries.
The period of Valentine’s Day, February 14th , was chosen as the launching moment for both versions as a useful leg up to the summer and to not cannibalise winter sales.
However, Marks & Spencer marketed its version earlier than TFP/Croft and thus generated much of the first publicity.

We came to the following review:
Type:
no special indication, so it is a Standard Port like the Ruby, Tawny and White with a IVDP rating of 5.
Price:
11.95 Euros, directly from importer to consumer, postage costs excluded. For comparison: recently we paid in shops of a large Dutch drinks chain 12.49 Euros for a Dow’s LBV 2000 and 15,99 for a Dow's 10 Years Old Tawny (both IVDP rating 8).
To serve:
chilled or over ice.
Presentation:
good and beautiful (see photographs).
Colour:
nice full rosé.
Smell:
fresh, a little prickling, a bit fruity, not a hint of Port characteristics. 
Taste:
very sweet, lightly prickling, no Port characteristics.
Generally:
Of course we have judged it chilled. If you do not follow the instructions, you have no reason to complain. 
This Croft Pink is especially a marketing concept and less a winegrower’s product. Some producers will be jealous of it, but as serious consumers it does not cheer us up. 
Maybe this rosé deserves some 80 points as an “alcopop”. But as a Port Wine the judgement has to be even less than the IVDP rating of 5 (about equivalent with a Parker rating of 70).

It is impossible to trivialize this project.
The IVDP accompanied it during a year, TFP is a serious company, worked on it during three years and produced 360,000 litres of this rosé Port Wine.
On the other hand the producers of this product may aim too easy at the especially summery popularity of rosé table wines and at the success of other popular drinks.
Croft Pink is not an option for consumers who already love Port. Moreover we do not believe that it will be successful with the younger, female Port drinker as TFP hope. At the most this will happen with the younger, female NOT Port drinker who will not easily be won for the real Port Wine by this.
We do not exclude that the product will be a success, but consider it improbable that it will still be asked for after five years.

Finally this introduction has two amazing aspects:

  1. The IVDP breaks the current rules without any discussion in the right institutions. The type does not exist in these rules and the colour does not exist either. The trick is that they call it a light Ruby, but that one actually already existed, namely the light red Standard Tawny. We do not hope that this is a license for further demolition of the quality standards in the Port industry.
  2. Time after time the TFP people criticise their colleagues who also produce Douro table wines and they count themselves superior with their Special Category Ports. But this Pink Port, as wine as well as Port, stays far behind these abused table wines. We wish TFP a lot of success, even with Croft Pink, but why do they have to behave themselves so annoying and unprofessionally?  

    Sources: Decanter of 28/01/08, Diário de Notícias of 04/04/08, Sol Confidential of 23/02/08, Forum FTLOP, www.croftpink.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 






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